Banbury_in_00 (Posts about scenery)

Platform 5 Canopy Rear Wall

Tim Pearson — Sun, 04 May 2025 12:00:00 GMT

I have now had a chance to complete the first part of the canopy on Platform 5 - using the frosted windows - unfortunately some of the 'frosting' got scraped off in handling which is annoying. I am also not very happy with the 10mm wide styrene I have used for the top concrete beam but it will have to do.

Translucent Windows

Tim Pearson — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 12:00:00 GMT

After various suggestions on Model Rail Forum I have tried spraying some glazing to create frosted or translucent windows as required for example along the rear canopy wall for platforms 5 and 6.

Following some suggestions on ModelRailForum, I took a translucent document wallet cover (quite stiff plastic) you can see that untreated on the RHS, Then I gave it 4 coats of Vallejo matt varnish via an airbrush (2 each side) and also 3 coats of the frosted window spray that came in a can - this gave something much more like what I wanted - see the LHS.

Goods Loading Platform Contd.

Tim Pearson — Sun, 26 Jan 2025 12:00:00 GMT

I have continued working on the goods loading platform and fitted both the rear retaining walls and the lighting.

I have not yet found the sort of fencing I would like all of the retail stuff I have tried has been too tall.

Loooking at the photos I believe the fencing is unchanged in the last 65 years apart from now been painted a rather gaudy blue colour. By eye it is about 3.5 to 4 feet tall ie needs to be about 16mm in scale.

I also need to fit coping stones on the top of the wall.

Goods Platform Contd

Tim Pearson — Sun, 27 Oct 2024 12:00:00 GMT

I have been experimenting with Juweela paving slabs - I want to use them for both paved areas around the station entrance - and for edging on my goods platform - (it's too late to use on the main platforms as the levels would be all wrong). I first did a bit experimenting using an offcut mounting the slabs first and then masking them and filling the space between with smooth-it:

I wasn't over happy with the result - things I learnt were

The slabs are really delicate before they are glued to the base
White PVA sticks them fine, but if you let it get on the top of the slap it will discolour it
the 'look' really needs careful attention to lining up, they will have enough variation even if you line them up well if you don't they will look poor. So use a nice straight edge metal ruler to provide a straight edge.

Here is the result prior to spreading the platform surface:

I am pretty happy with it.

I used Juweela 11 x 11mm (24148) ceramic for the slabs and I also purchased for the pavement that runs alonsgside Juweel Curbstones(sic) (28353)

Sloping Roadway

Tim Pearson — Fri, 25 Oct 2024 12:00:00 GMT

Having spent far too long on the woodwork, I now have a platform that is basically complete. Before I do any further cosmetic work on it, I have turned my attention to the roadway that runs alongside it and descends a couple of feet to the level of the station. I have made a sloping frame for it to go on, and used the platform as a template to cut out the roadway.

I will still need to cut some strips to make the raised pavement that runs alongside the edge of the platform wall/fence.

Goods Platform

Tim Pearson — Wed, 23 Oct 2024 12:00:00 GMT

Although I have sort of constructed the rather difficult main platforms (which are tricky as they curve, and I have made even trickier by wanting to have lighting on all of them). I put off the goods platform that runs down the west of the station.

It is also tricky as it is level but the roadway next to it descends so the boundary wall gradually increases in visibility. It also has curves, pavements and lighting.

There were lines on each side of it - now gone. And the goods loadding platform itself is overgrown today.

Here is a current satellite view and hand sketch of the layout.

I have built the framework and then sanded a curved edge and then fitted the lighting connectors. In order to get the platforms to sit nicely I have used bolts to the underside of the baseboard with keyhole shaped holes in the platform so when the surface is glued on the bolts can still be removed to work on the platform itself.

York Modelling Kit

Tim Pearson — Sun, 25 Aug 2024 12:00:00 GMT

I intend to use York Modelling for producing the laser cut components for the station building - so I thought I would buy one of their retail kits to get used to their output and to give myself a little practice in assembly.

Making the Platform sides

Tim Pearson — Tue, 12 Sep 2023 12:00:00 GMT

The platform sides at Banbury are stone sets that seem very hard to model they seem to be a different colour in very photo - sometimes greyish sometimes Brown I have been experimenting with airbrushing them some grey and then overspraying with Brown - some of these are ok but a lot are not.

I have used South Eastern Finecast embossed stone block sheets and then cut them into strips of the right size then taped them to a backing for spraying.

I will do a load and then choose the best ones I think.

The prototype picture below is a modern one as you can see from the cables running along it.

Cork Paint

Tim Pearson — Thu, 18 Sep 2014 12:00:00 GMT

I sprayed a mixture of grey, red oxide and black primer on the cork. It isn't great (as you can see it is very patchy) but it doesn't really need to be - it is there just to ensure that when it is ballasted there isn't new shiny cork underneath.

For these boards I painted them in situ as taking them out was going to be difficult.

Some Vaguely Scenic Work

Tim Pearson — Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:00:00 GMT

Up until now everything I have done has been on the non-scenic part of the layout. The station approach board is the first that has to be scenic, and whilst I don't want to get into the scenery yet, the one job I need to do before laying the track is to colour over the new cork and track bed so that when it is ballasted some years hence it will blend in nicely.

Here is the board with the cork laid on it

And here it is with a bit of colour

I am using the Chris Nevard recommended "misting" with cans of red oxide, matt black, and primer grey. It doesn't need to be a work of art right now because most of it will not be seen, all that is necessary is to remove the shiny newness of the cork and surrounding board.